Thanks to Mike for passing this along.
Tilman Fertitta is barely past the first of his many morning cups of coffee and the first ten minutes of our meeting when he decides, as is his wont, to take control. As soon as I break out my tape recorder, he picks it up and places it on top of a paper cup, within wrist-snapping distance, turning it off and on during our discussion as he deems fit. Having noticed poor lighting on another floor, he dispatches a passing employee to fix it. When I ask the 55-year-old to tell me about how he got started, he admonishes me in his thick Texas twang: “I’ve overread that story. I just hate to go that far back.” So we don’t, for now, because as Fertitta later tells me, laughing, “I do whatever the f–k I want.”